UV Painting Project and Hellboy build

I expected the comparisons between the rifling styles would be more definitive, but what I've found seems to be mostly "Here is a chronological list of styles" and impassioned opinion, no real explanations, justifications or even simple tests. They seemed to change styles whenever a more persuasive salesman came along. The only numbers I found were in a college thesis, way too dry to read through on a holiday.

So, (purely personal opinion) considering pushing a deformed lead bullet through it, I'm torn between 3 and 5 as being the most realistic answers. Visually, I kind of like 2.
 
Number 7 is common, called an octagonal bore.
Adam Savage is going to cut actual rifling on his Samaritan
so I'm hoping to see what he eventually does.
 
Here's the rifling of a M777 Howitzer, lots of land and grooves.

M777 Howitzer rifling.jpg
 
Here's the rifling of a M777 Howitzer, lots of land and grooves.
Yeah, on huge guns I saw that a lot, but once you got down to barrel openings only an inch or so wide, rifling got less complex. In large cannons, there were even examples of rifled shells! I was also surprised to read that the twist proportions actually don't change much, regardless of the barrel length - the ratio has more to do with the bore radius.

Regardless, I'm sure any option will make a beautiful render!
 
Looking at the machines used for cutting rifling I found some can do progressive cutting.
So the spin gets faster toward the end of the barrel.

Regardless, it is about making it look good, so I'm
going with a right-hand twist ignoring twist ratio.
This is what I ended up with.

HB bore.jpg
 
I really like this attention to detail (to be honest, if I'd have done a gun, I'd probably totally forgotten the rifling. I know what it does, why a bullet should spin, just wouldn't have thought of it. So if I'll ever have to model such a thing I'd know what to look for) ;) I'm really awaiting eagerly your uv-maps for this thing,
 
Thanks Has, I have been doing some behind the scenes uv-testing.
I still have some building to do but I may start uv mapping one part or another, maybe the sight rail. :unsure:

Good luck for me, Adam Savage did a complete teardown rebuild video of the Samaritan on YouTube recently. (y)
It's astounding how many parts he made.
 
I've tried to model a grip before. This can be very tough to get finger indentions to look natural. I'm looking forward to this.
 
It's looking pretty good, after re-watching some video of the
Samaritan being built I was able to "see" it better in my head.

The cutout part is done with Boolean subtraction with the usual problems with more complex objects.
At first it did the "one object disappears and the other one gets it's normals turned inside out" thing.
You know when this happens because the object turns all black. When this happens you can often
just move one object a tiny bit and it's fine, and that worked this time.

Actually I only needed a small section notched out of the front of the grip,
which could have been done without the Boolean, or at least a simpler one.

Getting a grip.jpg
 
Thanks T, the model is getting quite big so I have to turn off visible in editor,
Booleans and SubD modifiers or things don't move so good.

And my six dollar mouse is finally dying. Bringing me to the end of a test to
see which would last longer a $120 gaming mouse or a cheepo one.

On the gaming mouse a button broke on week two, the cheepo lasted for years.
This time I ordered a cheepo gaming mouse. We'll see how that works...
 
I lowered the whole top of the sight rail and frame as
the plans I was working from seem drawn a little to tall.

HB Small adjustments.jpg
 
My initial attempts to map the sight rail did not go well.
Trying to use either of the two unwrapping algorithms
resulted in twisted and warped uv islands.

So I scrapped that and went back to the UV Mappers
cubic mapper and that eventually worked out great.

Using a UV checker material to check distortion- Thanks Has.

Mapped Sight Rail.jpg


Checker Map Sight Rail.jpg
 
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